I planned a trip to Israel with my mother, who had never been. She was so upset at the wars in the 70s that she swore not to go until they “made peace” with their neighbors. In the 40 years since, it became clear that wasn’t going to happen, and so we are here together for Mothers’ Day.

After a week in Israel, we crossed the border in Aqaba and got a taxi up to Petra. I’ve been here twice before, and this time I was determined to see something new.